Mussoorie: Never Ending Charm of Paharon Ki Raani

It’s that time of year again when you want to get away from the scorching heat of Delhi. This popular hill station, which was established by an Irishman called Captain Young little over 169 years ago, has changed over the last decade or so because of over ‘touristification’. However, it still retains some of its old glory if you are ready to look beyond the Mall Road, the Gun Hill and the Kempty Fall – the three most famous and most commercialized places here.

The hill station in Dehradun district, located at a height of more than 7,000 feet above sea level, has been immortalized by its most famous resident — Ruskin Bond — in his numerous books. Mussoorie is a hit with honeymooners as well as weekend revellers. No wonder it’s called ‘the honeymoon capital of North India’. However, these tourists restrict themselves to the beaten path. They do not bother to enjoy several amazing walks that Mussoorie offers. If you are one of those who like to put on their walking shoes then try its walks. Camel’s Back Road walk is one of my favourites, which provides you the view of the valley and mountains in total peace. The road starts from near Hotel Nand Residency on the Kulri Bazar side of the Mall and terminates at the Gandhi Chowk.

Another walk, much longer, is up to the Lal Tibba. Starting from near the Picture Palace cinema hall bus station this trek takes you five km to the highest point in Mussoorie. From Lal Tibba you can view some of the highest peaks of Uttaranchal (Gangotri peaks, Yamunotri peaks, Badrinath and Kedarnath) with the help of telescope stationed atop a roof. They all look so close viewed through a telescope provided you go there in the morning when sky is clear. If you want to sample the merchandise being sold at the shops on the Mall road, taste different foods and see the hotels standing over each other, then what better then walking the two km long Mall road. If you want to get yourself photographed in local dresses then take the ropeway (gondola) to the Gun Hill, though the place looks like some crowded bazaar, it’s Ok if you want to have a panoramic view of ‘Paharon Ki Rani’ from more than 2500 metre height. This place also provides a great of view Himalayas if the weather is clear. Another popular place is Kempty fall, some 24 km on the Yamunotri road. But this once beautiful place has lost its charm with typical tourism ills infecting it too. If you want to indulge in some real serious trekking through among tall deodar trees then Dhanolti is the place for you. Situated on Tehri road about 24 km from Mussoorie, it has real mountain beauty. One can enjoy walks through tall deodars or can have a go at horse back riding. You can trek up to Himalaya view point from where mighty Himalayas appear so majestic. Further ahead on the same road is historic Sarkhanda Devi temple. To reach the temple one has to negotiate the steep hike of two km from the main road. There are ponies available but it’s better to avoid using them because it’s not a very good feeling riding them on such a steep climb. The temple is situated at a peak of more than 3000 meter in height. All other places around it look so small. It is said that this temple is where Parvati’s head fell when Shiva was performing his tandav nritya (cosmic dance) with her body in his arms. So the temple has great following in this part of the hill state. How to Reach: Mussoorie is very well connected to Delhi by road and trains. Uttaranchal Roadways runs Volvo AC buses to Dehradun from where one can either hire cabs or use state transport buses. Where to Stay: Mussoorie has all kind of hotels suiting to every budget. Many of them are on the Mall Road itself. If you are looking for a place which is close to the Mall Road yet away from the crowds then try hotels on the Camel’ Back road.

Explore The History of Mussoorie

Mussoorie, located some 250 miles north of Delhi, capital of India, is among the most popular hill stations of India, and is called the Queen among the hill stations. It overlooks the sprawling Doon valley and the city of Dehradun, the gateway to Mussoorie and infact to the entire Garhwal.

Mussoorie, a hill resort at a height of around 7000 ft above the sea level, straddles a ridge in the Garhwal Himalayas – a region which is developing into a major tourism destination. The holy and mighty river Ganga is visible from one end of the ridge and another famous river Jamuna from the other, a stretch of around twelve miles in all, from Cloud’s end in the west to Jabarkhet in the east.

Although Mussoorie, as a hill station was established only as back as in 1823, it has quite an intriguing past.

Mussoorie was never an official summer capital unlike Simla – a hill station in the state of Himachal pradesh which was the summer capital of the British Indian government and even unlike Nainital – the summer capital of the united provinces government in British India. Mussoorie always remained unofficial – for the affairs of heart. It has always been a gossipy place – with an air of informality and a tradition of romance – The Honeymoon capital of India.

An idyllic stroll through any of the meandering mountain roads of the town on a clear and sunny day will bring you to some of the well known and not so well known spots – each having its own tales to tell – Landour Bazaar, Chaar dukaan, Lal tibba, Gun hill, the Camel Back cemetery, the Mussoorie Library, and of course the hotel Savoy – an historical edifice in itself. You may be able to recognise any or all of the old houses and estates or you may meet some descendant of any of the many well – known families of Mussoorie.

Apart from its own quiet charm, Mussoorie also boasts of spectacular views of the Himalayas. Hill ridges, irregular in shape and partly wooded, form layer after layer to the horizon, where snow peaks are visible as if you can touch them. From west to east, the mighty peaks of Bandarpoonch, Srikantha, the Gangotri group and the Chaukhamba.

The weather is generally bright and clear – except during the three months ( June to August) of Monsoons,- when mists envelope the mountain slopes and paints the sky in a mauvish glow and the woods around – of pine, cedar, birch, oak, rhododendron and deodar – turns greener. There usually is a bright Christmas and the breathtaking view of the snowclad Mussoorie gives it the name – the Queen among hill stations.

There are popular picnic spots in and around the town – Kempty Falls in the west and Dhanolti, further up beyond the town.

History of Mussoorie: It was due to the conquest of the Garhwal and the Dehra in 1803 by the Gurkhas, under Umer Singh Thapa that indirectly Mussoorie came into being. It was natural after that that at some point of time the interest of British security would have clashed with the expansionist policies of the Gurkhas and although the immediate cause of the war was different, the war, inevitably broke out on November 1, 1814 and the Dehradun proper was evacuated of the Gurkhas by 1815 and was annexed to the district of Saharanpur by 1819.

The present site of the town of Mussoorie, before the British came, there were only shepherds whose animals grazed on the ‘Mansur’ shrub which gives the town its name. It is natural to suppose that the officers locate the hills and eventually climb them here and there in search of sport and recreation. The first house erected on the ridge of Mussoorie was a small hut built on the Camel’s back as a shooting box by Mr. Shore, the then Joint Magistrate and superintendent of revenues of the Doon and Captain Young of the Sirmur Rifles in 1823. Soon Captain Young built his large residence called ‘Mullingar’ as his residence as the Commandant of Landour. The splendid climate and the good sport obtainable gradually attracted other Europeans. As the Doon and the hills to the north became better known in 1827, the Government established a convalescent depot for European soldiers at Landour. The town grew rapidly and a hundred years on it had grown into a major settlement of the home – sick British, away from the heat and dust of the plains. Social life had also become hectic. There were balls and parties in Landour cantonment and Polo, fetes and Riding in happy valley where the Charleville Hotel stood, the present site of LBSNAA academy.

Houses & estates of Mussoorie: Mussoorie has some lovely and charming old houses and estates, usually with names derived from the native places of those who built and lived in them. Today these old houses and estates are owned by well – to – do Indians , many of whom, follow the life styles of their former colonial rulers. In most cases, the old names , have been retained. Some of these old graceful houses are — Captain Young’s Mullingar Mansion, the oldest existing building in Mussoorie, Houses of Irish pioneers – Tipperary, Killarney, Shemrock cottage and the Tara hall, the houses of Scot pioneers – Scottsburn, Wolfsburn and of course the houses of the English rulers – Connaught Castle, Grey castle, Hampton court and Castle hill. There evidently were a lot of fans of the legendary writer Sir Walter Scott as we find old estates of the name of Kenilworth, Rockeby, Waverly and also Abootsford – the name of Sir Scott’s own house in England.

Well known families of Mussoorie: There are quite a few well – known families in Mussoorie, who over the times have become a part of the history, culture and the landscape of this place : the Rajmata of Jind, Princess Sita of Kapurthala, the Gantzers, the Badhwars, the Barrettos, the Skinners, the Keelans, the Alters, Lala Banwarilal, Ram Chander and brothers, Pooranchand and sons and P.C. Hari’s family. Most of the shopkeepres of Mussoorie and Landour Bazaar are descended from the merchant who first came here with the british soldiers and settlers over 160 years ago.

Camel Back Cemetry: Thousands of British graves cling to the steep slopes – a constant reminder of the British presence in Mussoorie. Here lie the hill stations’ first pioneers and settlers as well as Generals and common soldiers, memsahibs and their infants, schoolmasters, revered gentlemen and brewers. Here also lies John Lang, the first Australian born novelist who was Charles Dickens’ India correspondent and Fredrick Wilson, better known as ‘Pahadi Wilson’, who married a girl from Harsil. He was the first man to float timber down the Ganga river who lived a life which would have been the envy of kings. One also finds Alfred Hindmarsh, resting here – a survivor of the charge of light brigade during the Crimean War and many other famous names and not so famous names.